Archive for the 'munich' Category

Europe 2006 Travelogue

A TOC for my trip to Europe in May 2006

Chronological

  1. May 10 2006: Twas the night before Europe…
  2. May 11 2006: Money makes the world go round…
  3. May 12 2006: London airport… waiting for Lyon flight
  4. May 12 2006: My Entry To Lyon
  5. May 13 2006: Wandering around Lyon FR
  6. May 14 2006: Day of the show in Lyon FR
  7. May 14 2006: Seeing Alcina in Lyon FR
  8. May 15 2006: Lyon FR to Entrecasteaux FR
  9. May 16 2006: Day 1 in Entrecasteaux FR
  10. May 17 2006: Day 2 in Entrecasteaux FR
  11. May 18 2006: Byebye Entrecasteaux FR, Hello Marseille FR, and Goodnight Munich DE
  12. May 19 2006: Orlando in Munich
  13. May 20 2006: Munich DE to Dresden DE and Dead Man Walking
  14. May 21 2006: Dresden DE to Berlin DE
  15. May 22 2006: Day 1 in Berlin DE
  16. May 23 2006: Day 2 in Berlin DE
  17. May 24 2006: Goodbye Berlin DE, Hello London UK
  18. May 25 2006: Day 1 in London UK
  19. May 26 2006: Day 2 in London UK
  20. May 27 2006: Goodbye London UK, Hello San Francisco CA

By category
Lyon FR | Entrecasteaux FR | Munich DE | Dresden DE | Berlin DE | London UK | All Travel Posts

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May 20: Munich DE to Dresden DE and Dead Man Walking

Had breakfast in the funny little tea room of our hotel again this morning, then packed and headed out. Roy picked a hotel that was mercifully close to the train station, so we only had to walk for a block or so. I ran into a pharmacy there to check into heavier drugs for my cold. After we determined she spoke english I went right to it: “I need ibuprofen and something with pseuephedrine in it to dry my head out”… done and done. I also got some fisherman’s friend cough drops. Yay.

Then it was on the train to Dresden - about a 4 hour journey. Once again I am floored by the trains in Europe. Electric all the way across the country, and such a smooth ride. You don’t have to worry about bottoming out in the seats and cracking your tailbone going across a “pothole” like you do on Caltrain.

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Sadly the full kitchen was not available in the diner car, but there was the ever present beer and Spargle - Asparagus. Roy chose a stew thing that looked disgusting but tasted pretty good.

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I spent an hour or so continuing my quest to fix the blog entries, but gave up after my lunchtime beer. Since I am sick, and my roommate Monica’s single piece of advice to me was “Eat when you are hungry and sleep when you are tired”, I slept the rest of the way to Dresden.

It was wet when we got in, and definitely couldn’t decide if it was going to storm or clear up or do something in between… and it was *cold* which made me very happy, since I have been sweating through my clothes everywhere we go.

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Because it was raining and we wanted to hurry to the hotel and opera, we took a cab from the train station. The hotel ended up being a very large studio - a free upgrade - which was nice.

Sadly, no time to enjoy. I threw a sweater and jacket on to head to the opera - we took a cab again. Look at that sky behind the opera house.

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The opera was Dead Man Walking - in English. Finally an opera I could understand, and the German’s would be the ones paying attention to the subtitles. Utterly different from anything I have seen so far, this show was commissioned by the San Francisco Opera and was a wild success there. In Dresden it also had a very warm welcome. This was not the opening. Only at openings do the directors and designers come out for what is clearly a traditional booing.

The story line is approximately the same as the movie. Guy is on death row and loses all of his appeals. Throughout, Sister Helen tries to get him to own his crime. Eventually he does, then they needle-time. It’s a modern story line, though we wondered if it was a difficult translation for German’s who don’t have the death penalty. The show started with a 5 minute movie clip played on a scrim that shows the original crime, scored alternately by the opera and a soundtrack. Then the present day characters reveal themselves behind the scrim. Finally you get to the main set - a very complicated mechanical set that was sort of like a rubik’s cube that only rotated on one axis. Each side had three doors, and depending on the needs one or more of the doors on the face would open to revel stuff. Roy warned me before I came out that the show might not happen as they burned out a couple of motors trying to get it to work.

Roy’s connection here were three of the leads. Sister Helen was in his Madrid show (previous to Lyon), and he had also worked with De Rocher and his Mother at various times. We went out after the show with these folks. They were a very close crowd, and very warm. We ended up at a horrible place called The American Bar which had a 40 page drinks menu - including table of contents and glossary. I had a beer and ignored the bar and had a good time, though my cold was not going to give me much of a break again. THough we didn’t really want to leave, the place was outrageously smoky and we had to go. The cold air was delicious, but messed up my throat.

The Dresden opera, inside and out
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We got back to the hotel exhausted. We tried to get internet access, but it turned out to be mostly impossible. Roy was online long enough to book our Berlin hotel, then we hit the sack. I apparently snored very badly last night thanks to the cold. Thankfully he had some earplugs. I slept like a log.

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Internets in the big city…

I am having just plain silly problems with the blogging while on vacation. The short is that I cannot post real blog entries at the moment, nor can I upload pictures at all. Good times.

I am alive, well, and headed to see Orlando in Munich this evening.

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May 19: Orlando in Munich

I rested well last night but my cold is continuing to get worse. Nothing in the chest at this point, but the throat is tender in the am now as well.

We got up and had breakfast in the hotel tea room. It was good for a free breakfast: Several fresh granolas and yogurts, assorted cold cuts and good cheeses, baskets of actually interesting breads, rolls and biscuits, coffee and teas, etc., as well as a whole bunch of condiments a la olives, pickles, and relishey things. I had a pot of earl gray along with my munchables.

After food we wandered around the city all day. It was clear and very cool out. I opted for shorts and short sleeve shirt again, since this tends to allow me to cool off quickly after lots of walking.
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There were a handful of old cathedrals again, these much more severe but just as majestic as the ones in France.
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We wandered through another open air market with whole foods that can’t be found.

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Along the way we stopped into a pharmacy for some cold drugs… Not sure how the exchange went but I ended up with something that resembles mint candy more than anything else. It claims to have something that looks like a topical in it, but it’s not doing much. “It will disinfect the head” she said. :) Img 1962Img 1939Img 1940Img 1890

Munich is a perfect city - if you have a lot of money. Everything is clean and beautiful. There is no trash on the streets, nor is there any evidence of graffiti. It was heavily damaged during the war, and heavily rebuilt. The people are gorgeous. The weather is pleasant.
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Still, there is something here that grates, but I can’t identify it. I know the language barrier is bigger for me. I can’t speak the most rudimentary German - can’t phonetically reproduce sounds off of a menu, and that makes me insecure. In France, I could at generally do pleasantries, even if hearing through the actual accent was beyond me.

The opera was a complete spectacle. The interior of the opera house itself is cotton candy pink with whipped cream accents, and plenty of pink velvet. Gorgeous and supergay. The usual concession stand was completely out of control. It was a gourmet dessert shop. They had every drink imaginable. And there were multiple classes of seating available for the concession during intermissions. There was stand and wander class, stand at a high table class, sit at a table in the open class, and sit at a table in a closed room class. Everything but stand and wander are by reservation, and will - at your request - have your drinks and chosen dainties available when you come down. As they staged Orlando with 2 intermissions, I got to witness this fabulosity in detail.

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The very basic story of Orlando is similar to Alcina - someone loves someone else who loves yet someone else. And someone isn’t doing their duty as a soldier. But in the end, Orlando sees the error of his ways and will get his shit together. This production made Alcina look powdered-wig traditional though. The costumes and set were highly militaristic, and sort of campy pre-cold war - or futuristic in some areas. There are two walls of orange neon tubing. One of the leads dodders around in thigh high red patent platform boots, while another one wears tight acid washed jeans and rhinestone cat eye sunglasses. It was NUTS.

Again, this was an opening - the directors and designers came out and were booed quit loudly.

Roy’s had several network points here - the director, designer, and several singers had all worked together before. And there were several other friends of that group that came as well. The opening marked the last play the director would do for the Munich opera, and was the last of 3 shows the operas general director would put on. At the cast/friends party afterwards, he spoke for almost an hour while the audience alternated between complete boredom and adulation. A very engaging speaker (in German), but shitty sense of timing. He called for a toast at the end of this hour, and only the sneaky sorts who had been running around grabbing drinks instead of listening to him could actually do a proper toast. I entertained myself through this by watching all the “super” boys. Super being Supernumerary, aka non-singing extras. They were all hot (of course) and played buff soldiers filling up the empty spaces.

After the show, the core group headed out for dinner and drinks. Roy managed to convince the staff to reopen the kitchen and serve us food, which was fun. It got a little uncomfortable when several of the ppl at our table decided not to eat and just ordered drinks instead. Oops. :)
I took almost no pictures. While the people were lovely and friendly, I had a difficult time staying present thanks to my cold. We got back to the hotel and I collapsed into sleep.

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May 18: Byebye Entrecasteaux FR, Hello Marseille FR, and Goodnight Munich DE

Img 1662On the train from Les Arcs to Marseille. It took about 40 min to get here from Entrecasteaux. The train is a yummy light blue and lavender color. Totally weird and unexpected. Tix were about 40 Euros. It’s crazy quiet too which is a nice surprise….

This morning it looked like it was going to rain and I had the last of my laundry on the line. Ellen brought it in, but I took it back out since it seemed to be looking up.

Mike finished the last of his grouting today then came in for lunch - we had wild boar sammies. I thought the meat was tastier after it was cold.

Ellen and Roy sang a last song before she drove us to the train station. They are really sweet together.

We got to Marseille and located the bus that would take us to the airport - another 25 minute ride. It came every 20 minutes, so we stowed our luggage in lockers at the train station and headed out to see Marseille for a few hours.

Marseille. Is. A. Pit.

Perhaps we hit it during a bad season, but I don’t think so. It’s smaller than Lyon, yet has graffiti, trash, and grime everywhere. There is a lot of public transit redevelopment going on, so there are huge ugly fences all over the main boulevards, which doesn’t help matters. It’s crowded and either smells like piss, smog, rotting fish, or all three depending on the wind.

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Img 1668I seriously have no reason to go back there… but we tried to make the best of a few hours. McDonald’s has quite the menu there.

We wandered out of the train station and hit a tea house for refreshments. It was really really weird. THe outside looked sort of tacky ice cream parlour, and the women working there matched the setting. I had a Tart l’Orange Meringue and Roy had something chocolatey. After ordering from the glass cases we wandered to the back where we found… heaven. A single room that screamed “MARSEILLE!” the way you imagine it should. We were in a ridiculous regal parlour with masterpieces on the wall and meticulously plastered and painted ceilings. It was a very WTF moment.

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Back outside after a quick bite to see things. Honestly not much. We spent the hours perfecting spypics - taking pictures of cute boys without them knowing about it… holding the camera down at your side but snapping pics like mad. It was pretty funny. We both got to point where we knew who the other one would be snapping and comparing the results. Fun times and hot boys. (How redonkalus is that ambulance guy? I wanted to put him in my suitcase and keep him forever and ever and ever.)

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But man oh man was it grimy!

We finally hopped on the bus to the airport. Roy had some fun times at the security checkpoint thanks to forgotten scissors.

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Then we hopped on our plane, and headed to Munich. The plane flight was tad over an hour. The subway was almost 10euros a piece, so we thought we would try a cab: 60euros. Don’t think so :)
We took the subway in… 45 minutes. Roy quickly located our hotel about 2 blocks from the subway. Hotellissimo. Heh. The room is silly small, but has a nice bathroom, crisp linens, and internet access (very. very. slow.) I took a shower to wash away Marseille, then we ran out for a quick bite. At 1230pm, McDonalds was the best bet. McRib sounds JUST THE SAME in german.

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We also had a quick wander around. Munich is beautiful on a rainy night.
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